Restaurant review: Lucky Cat and COQODAQ

Tristan O’Hana heads to Lucky Cat by Gordon Ramsay to test-drive its two-week collaboration with New York’s COQODAQ

I knew it was a risk wearing shorts and T-shirt to a Mayfair restaurant, but it was 32 degrees in central London – a temperature that does not allow for chinos and shirts on the underground, unless you plan on arriving at your destination with glamorous sweat patches and an intriguing odour. 

Despite having never been to Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat restaurant in Grosvenor Square, the location and reputation alone told me: “What are you doing wearing shorts and T-shirt? You look a fool.” Indeed, as the smiling front-of-house chap opened the door for me on arrival, polished and pristinely presented in a sharp three-piece suit, it’s fair to say I felt a tad underdressed. A quick glance around the restaurant confirmed this – no kneecaps in sight. Just a scattering of wealthy, beautiful people cooly enjoying cocktails, sashimi and champagne on a Wednesday afternoon. Do the well-off not sweat? Are they all like Roger Federer? 

No matter, for my embarrassment was immediately lifted by the greeting from the waiting team at Lucky Cat, whose friendly, attentive and personable service kicked in right away (and didn’t deviate for one moment during the whole lunch – shoutout to our brilliant waiter Mo). They were clearly unfazed by the casual scruff bag that had walked into their establishment. I wonder if Gordon would have been the same.

The chicken and the cat

I was visiting Lucky Cat to check out its collaboration with COQODAQ, the New York fried chicken sensation that has taken this humble menu item and given it a premium and pricey twist through additions such as Petrossian caviar and Australian Périgord truffle. Not to mention claiming to have the largest Champagne list in America. This is fried chicken, folks, but not as you know it.

Simon Kim’s COQODAQ took over Mayfair’s Lucky Cat for an exclusive two-week pop-up that ran until 12 July. The whole idea being that it slotted into the fun and games of Wimbledon fortnight, following COQODAQ’s success of tapping into the limelight of the US Open last year. “Chicken and tennis?” you say. “How does that work?” Well, it doesn’t really, but the limited-edition menu did have a wonderful tennis-themed cocktail to pair with the audacious nuggets. The Double Deuce was made with vodka, Saint Germain, Muyu Jasmine and honeydew, served over a sphere of watermelon ice that had been carved to look like a tennis ball. Super smart, super refreshing.

When chefs collaborate on overseas projects, it’s always interesting to find out where they’re sourcing their ingredients from, given Kim and his team in this case are far away from their usual suppliers. Of course, at this level, all boxes had been ticked. COQODAQ had bought in Norfolk Black and Hubbard Cross chickens from higher-welfare farms in Norfolk and Suffolk, enabling its chefs to offer their Korean- and American-style nuggets, made with a signature spice blend and gluten-free rice flour batter. The Golden Nugget, as it appeared on the special guest menu, came with two options: 24 Karat Nugget, served with mounds of that Petrossian caviar; and the Black Gold Nugget, topped with a great big pile of shaved truffle. These are some indulgent bites, let me tell you – a far cry from the cardboard boxes of nuggets most QSR sites would serve up on the high street to guests on the move. Or are they?

A ton of fun 

Our visit happened to coincide with a photoshoot of Kim in the next dining room, who was modelling his COQODAQ creations with the aid of a bright orange cardboard takeaway box. I had seen this box a bunch of times over the previous weeks, as journalists and influencers shared this luxurious takeaway option on their feeds. Dubbed the ‘ultimate Takeaway Box’, essentially you can taste the COQODAQ/Lucky Cat experience away from the restaurant for £100. We’re not in Morely’s anymore, Toto. For a cool ton, you get six signature nuggets alongside a small tin of Petrossian caviar, a mother of pearl spoon, fresh chives, crème fraîche and house-made pickles. You’ve got to admire the fun of it all.

If, during its time in London, you’d have ordered everything on the COQODAQ/Lucky Cat menu, including the delicious Bluefin tuna tartare with Calabrian chilli soy sauce (is it wrong that this was my favourite dish?), you’d probably spend close to £100 before service and, probably, much like our feathered friends, still feel a little peckish. Hugely grateful I was then when Mo began bringing out some signature dishes from the Lucky Cat á la carte for us to try. GFC (Gordon’s Fried Chicken), with its hot Korean miso, kaffir cucumbers and black sesame, was arguably the best chicken of the day. The bonito fried duck leg bao with Szechuan, spicy hoisin and cucumber is no doubt a crowd-pleaser, while the sweet and sour prawns with pickled peppers and grilled pineapple also hit the spot. 

As I wrote in the previous issue of Dine Out, when trying the recent Pizza Pilgrims crust-dipping partnership, industry collaborations consistently turn heads and seem to be on the up. This one happened to be at the higher end of the market, but given the people involved and the exposure it generated, there’s no doubt it was a success. Next time, I must dress for the occasion. 

Images: Lateef Photography

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