Restaurant review: RAILS, King’s Cross

The Dine Out team are often toing and froing in the King’s Cross area of London, as we journey our way around the country from its central train station, paying visits to inspirational hospitality businesses around the UK.

What this means is that we’re often on the lookout for neighbouring King’s Cross eateries and bars to stop in on – reliable, high quality outfits that we know won’t let us down, but which are also just a short stroll away from our next train journey.

Of course, with the seemingly endless investment that’s going into the area, one is never spoilt for choice. However, at the end of last year, arguably one of the most convenient and classy joints opened up right outside of King’s Cross St. Pancras, immediately joining our list of go-to stop-off stunners.

Dinner at RAILS

Vibrant scene

The latest addition to this vibrant dining and drinking scene is RAILS Restaurant & Little Bar, a stone throw from the Eurostar and sat on the first floor of the Great Northern Hotel. It offers modern and elevated British classics with subtle French accents, which makes sense, given its proximity to international travel options.

Formerly known as Plum + Spilt Milk, last year the restaurant and menu was reimagined and now features elevated yet accessible dishes made using seasonal ingredients. New highlights include a hearty salad of roasted red, yellow and candied beetroot topped with a tahini yoghurt dressing, finished with pomegranate seeds and lamb lettuce; and baked St Marcellin drizzled with truffle honey and served with crisp sourdough toast.

Must-try mains include seared Cornish cod with buttered leek, apple and thyme dressing; roasted guinea fowl with sweet corn purée and chicken jus; and Moules Frites in a white wine, shallot and parsley sauce. From the grill, there’s the tender, free range pork chop topped with apple sauce and a crisp piece of crackling; while the grilled lemon sole from Rye in East Sussex is served with a wedge of lemon and a choice of sauce. The chateaubriand comes with a choice of two sauces and two sides.

Desserts feature a classic tarte tatin with vanilla Chantilly; île flottante; chocolate fondant; and a vegan plum cheesecake. There’s also a tempting cheese trolley with a choice of French and British cheeses from La Fromagerie, served alongside bread, crackers and chutneys.

The Sassy Negroni at Little Bar

No time to eat?

Of course, our travels and timetables don’t often allow for a leisurely three-course indulgence, but it’s still worth popping into this hotel for a drink or two. Located next to RAILS Restaurant is the inviting Little Bar – the perfect spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks or even pre- or post-train journey tipples.

The creative cocktails are French-inspired. The Sassy Negroni is a unique take on the much-loved classic, made with Suze Liqueur, Lillet Blanc Vermouth, Citadelle Gin and Sassy Cidre Poire; while the Fleur de Sureau sees El Jimador Tequila blended with St Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Crème de Cassis and lime juice.

The menu also features an extensive choice of wines, half of which are French, as well as aperitifs, digestifs and liqueurs.

The hotel’s building was originally designed in 1854 by King’s Cross station architect Lewis Cubitt and is one of the world’s first great railway hotels, built in a revolutionary new age of steam. In 2013, The Great Northern Hotel emerged from a fully comprehensive renovation which sensitively kept its timeless townhouse elegance, from the grand exterior to the wide curving corridors and its 88 chic bedrooms. If you do have time between travel, do yourself a favour and check-in here to check-out all of the fine F&B on offer. You won’t regret it.

Lead image: Zodee Media

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